Suring near Thurso

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Braal Castle, Halkirk Flats at Braal Castle, Halkirk
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Thurso Castle

 

Thurso Castle stands as a gallant ruined reminder of its former Gothic glory. Thurso means Thor’s River, named by the Vikings who inhabited Thurso in the 900’s. The structure looks out over the River Thurso like a bold Viking watchman standing guard opposite the Orkney Isles.

The castle was actually home to the old Earls of Caithness, the present mansion having been built in 1660 by George, Earl of Caithness. John Sinclair built grand rooms at the back of the building which demonstrates a fine example of Scottish mansion building. Unfortunately there was a fire, and in 1952 parts of the castle had to be demolished leaving it roofless. The former fortress is perched literally a stone’s throw away from the jagged cliffs, the tide of the river lapping at its feet. This building is as beautiful as the harsh, stunning and dramatic scenery which it inhabits.

Jane Welsh Carlyle talks of the wishes of “Mr C” in a letter to a friend from her home in Chelsea, in 1860:


“So he looked about for a sea residence where he might be safe from cocks and cockneys, and decided for Thurso Castle – which moreover could be reached by sailing”. (Carlyle, J W. 1880. I Too am Here. Cambridge University Press, 2010)


This area is definitely a suitable recluse if you need to be safe from “cocks and cockneys”, Thurso being over six hundred and fifty miles away from London. Carlyle talks of this “Mr C” being “immensely improved by his residence at Thurso Castle.” If it is ‘improvement’ you are looking for or just a refreshing exploration of the North I would not suggest taking up residence in the castle as you may find yourself as wet as a North Sea trout. The castle is however, well worth a visit as it is not the only point of interest in this area.

There are plenty of very dry and cosy places to stay at in this area from quaint seaside bed and breakfasts to grand mansions now containing modern flats. Braal Castle is another ruined castle standing just East of Halkirk. The castle was also owned by the Earls of Caithness in the 18th century although now barely visible unless you are looking for it. The adjacent mansion still stands strong, as beautiful top of the range flats in stunning surroundings.
 


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